In this article
What is a closed-end zipper?
A closed-end zipper has a single bottom stop, so the two sides never fully separate. It is used on skirts, trousers, necklines and bags.
What is an open-end zipper?
An open-end (separating) zipper has an insertion pin and retainer box at the bottom. The pin goes into the box to start the zipper, and the sides can separate completely. It is used on coats and jackets.
| Closed-end | Open-end | |
|---|---|---|
| Sides | Stay joined | Separate fully |
| Bottom part | Bottom stop | Pin and box |
| Typical product | Trousers, skirts, bags | Jackets, coats |
What does a two-way open-end zipper do?
It has two sliders, so it opens from both top and bottom. On long coats it makes sitting and walking easier and reduces stress on the open end.
For bags and luggage
These use two-way models closed at both ends. See our guide to X and O type zippers.
When ordering
Abbreviations vary between markets and suppliers. Writing out the end type in words reduces the risk of errors.
Which end type for which product?
| Product | Common end type |
|---|---|
| Trousers, skirts, dresses | Closed-end |
| Jackets, coats, sweatshirts | Open-end |
| Long coats | Two-way open-end |
| Bags, luggage | Closed-end or X/O two-way |
| Cushions, home textiles | Closed-end or continuous chain |
Left and right on open-end zippers
Which side carries the pin and box matters. Manufacturers distinguish left-insert and right-insert models, and garment makers also consider the target market. Specifying this when ordering avoids later errors.
Length measuring varies by end type
A closed-end zipper is usually measured from the slider top to the end of the bottom stop, and an open-end from the slider top to the end of the box. Some manufacturers start at the top stop. The difference looks small, but it can affect seam allowances in production.
Common problems
- Broken open end: Pulling the slider before the pin is seated is a frequent cause.
- Uneven sides: If sides are mixed up or sewn at different tension, the ends may not align. Keep the original pair together.
- Broken bottom stop: Without a bartack at the lower end, the load falls on the stop.
Frequently asked questions
What is a closed-end zipper?
A zipper joined at the bottom, so the two sides do not separate.
What is an open-end zipper?
A zipper whose sides separate completely, thanks to a pin and box at the bottom.
Which zipper goes on a coat?
Usually an open-end zipper. Long coats often use a two-way open-end.
Do trousers use open-end zippers?
Trousers usually use closed-end zippers, as the sides do not need to separate.
