In this article
What is an invisible zipper?
It is a type of coil zipper. The tape folds behind the teeth, so when closed only a seam line shows from outside.
Where is it used?
Dresses and skirts are the main uses, and open-end versions appear on jackets. It is not suited to heavy-use items such as backpacks, luggage or marine products.
How to sew it
- Use an invisible zipper foot.
- Stitch outside the fold line and do not get too close to the teeth.
- Avoid crossing thick layers, or reduce their bulk.
- Add a hook at the top if needed so the zipper does not take the strain.
Why do invisible zippers burst?
- Stitching too close to the teeth: It strains the slider.
- Thick layers: They can cause bursting as the slider passes.
- Tight garments: Forcing it closed without bringing the tapes together can open the chain.
Ironing
Following manufacturer advice, iron at low heat with the zipper closed and a cloth on top.
Invisible zipper selection table
| Product | Size | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Blouses, light dresses | Size 2 | Light fabric |
| Dresses, skirts | Size 3 | The most common choice |
| Heavy skirts, jackets | Size 5 | Open-end models can be used on jackets |
Sewing step by step
- Open the zipper and flatten the teeth gently with an iron at low heat. YKK states under 130 °C for this type.
- Fit an invisible zipper foot so the needle gets close without riding on the teeth.
- Sew outside the fold line, not too close to the teeth.
- Close the lower section, finish the seam and test the slider slowly.
On tight garments, forcing the slider without bringing the tapes together can open the chain. Invisible zippers are not advised on backpacks, suitcases or marine goods; a standard coil zipper is the better fit there.
